So. The good news; All the various modifications I needed to do to put the 304 in are out of the way. Transmission cross member re-fabrication, modifying an engine mount, having the rear drive shaft rebuilt (it needed it) and lengthened, having to "adjust" the shifting levers (main transmission and two transfer case) modifying the transmission tunnel cover, moving the fuel line to the other frame rail... What else... I"m sure I'm missing something, but you get the point.
I discovered that the oil pan has a rust pinhole in the side, above the static oil level. So, when it's running, it spews oil almost on par with the Exxon Valdeze. I have another pan to replace it, but have not had an opportunity to do so yet. In the meantime, I try to keep a Prius handy to sop up the ecological disaster as it's happening.
But that gets me back to it running... and carburetor adjustments. Something I have never had a real solid grasp on. I understand the principles of it, but knowing the nuances are trying my patients just a wee bit. There is a fine balance of fuel, air or choking thereof to keep the engine from stalling or flooding at inopportune times. So far, I have not deciphered the secrets of life to find that combustion Shanghai-la.
So keep trying I will. Because someone other than me likes going for rides.
OK, here is an easy enough way to adjust the carb. Assuming all else is well with it, IE float level set, choke and pull off working, etc, connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. Set the hot idle to what ever speed you want. Then while watching the gauge, screw each idle screw in and out as required, and stop when you have the highest vacuum reading. The ignition timing can be set the same way. Advance the timing until you get the highest vacuum, and then retard it 2 full inches. This will be close to what the engine wants to run it's best without regard to the actual timing marks. If it pings you can back it off until it just stops.(Depends on fuel quality, etc.)
ReplyDeleteOK, here is an easy enough way to adjust the carb. Assuming all else is well with it, IE float level set, choke and pull off working, etc, connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. Set the hot idle to what ever speed you want. Then while watching the gauge, screw each idle screw in and out as required, and stop when you have the highest vacuum reading. The ignition timing can be set the same way. Advance the timing until you get the highest vacuum, and then retard it 2 full inches. This will be close to what the engine wants to run it's best without regard to the actual timing marks. If it pings you can back it off until it just stops.(Depends on fuel quality, etc.)
ReplyDeleteThank you for the input.
ReplyDeleteThat portion of adjustment isn't too much of an issue. It's the choke/ cold idle that I still need to tweek. I made an adjustment this afternoon that seemed to make a positive change. It was stalling out after the hi-idle kicked down.